In the event that your wall appears level you can simply cut the filler
With the new kitchen cabinets, you’re in the right place to begin the next major step …..Installing the kitchen cabinets. Although the actual installation of Kitchen Cabinets isn’tall that hard The first and most important step is to measure and map the areas where the cabinets will be. With the help of layout markings on the floors and walls they will not just aid you in the placement of kitchen cabinets and stud location and stud locations, but also assist you in determining the areas where adjustments and shims may be needed. Before we begin, there are two things you’ll need for your project:
Pencil
Level or Laser Level or Laser
Drill
Tape Measure
Stud Finder
Clamps
1″ x 3″ Piece of wood (6′-8 long) (or an Inverted U-shaped frame (see the notes below)
Shims
Screws (long enough to fit 1 1/2 in the studs)
A utility knife or a chisel
Marking Compass
A second pair of hands (you might have to pay bribes to one of your acquaintances)
As I stated in the previous paragraph there is the option for using an item 1 3′ x 1′ wood for installation or constructing frames to support the cabinet (I have included a photo of a frame sample below). This could be constructed of 2’x4’s and should be long enough to hold the wall’s bottom cabinets. If you intend to build multiple kitchens, I’d suggest the frame, however the lumber piece is sufficient in the case of an event that is only once. In any situation, you’ll require an additional pair of hands to assist with the installation.
In this instance, we purchased (RTA) Ready-to-assemble kitchen cabinets from RTA Kitchen & Bathroom Cabinet Store. After the kitchen cabinets have been put together, and we’re ready to begin marking the plans. Many people begin starting with base cabinets however, we will begin by putting the cabinets on our walls first. There is no best or worst approach to begin with, but I prefer to begin by working on the upper cabinets first.
1. Make use of a level as well as a pencil, to trace a line parallel to the wall, about 3 inches higher than the floor. Take a measurement down from the line and down to the floor and then locate the floors highest point (if there is one) and draw the line that is drawn at that point. From the high point, Measure up 34 1/2 inches and draw a horizontal line along the wall to mark what is the highest point of cabinet base.
2. Once you have the top of your base cabinets, measure upwards another 19 1/2 inches and draw a straight line along the wall to mark the lower part of your wall cabinets. Mark each cabinet’s dimensions and position on the wall to ensure that the layout you originally planned is accurate.
3. Utilize a stud finder tool to find walls studs. Utilize a pencil to mark the studs’ locations within 6 inches higher but below the lines to the wall’s bottom cabinets. Create straight horizontal lines in between the bottom and top marks to indicate the central point of the studs.
4. If you’ve chose to use the 1 3′ x 1′ wood then this is the place you’ll use it (if you decide to use the U-shaped frame the frame comes into play once the lines have been drawn out). Install the 1’x three-foot support frame onto the wall by aligning the upper side of the rail to the line that runs along the lower edge of the cabinets. Install it by driving three or four two-inch screws into the rail to the wall’s studs.
5. Once there are all lines drawn now is the time to put in your cabinets for kitchen use. We will begin by installing the corner cabinets (here is where the helper’s additional pair of hands is required). Set the corner cabinet on the support rail for temporary use and let your assistant assist in holding the cabinet to keep it in place. Drill pilot holes into the solid cabinet’s back or support rail, and through the wall’s studs. Install the cabinet on the wall with two screws sufficient to go through the wall studs by at most one and a half inches. Examine the upper part of the cabinet for an even level, and also the front to determine if it is plumb. If you must correct the placement, back the screws just a bit, and place the top shims are placed behind the cabinet in the studs’ locations. If the cabinet is straight and level, then drive the screws in all the way and then insert a few more in each stud, to ensure it is attached securely on the wall.
6. Then we’ll begin installing the cabinets to opposite sides from the corner cabinet. After you’ve installed the cabinets make use of the clamps to connect each cabinet to the adjacent cabinet, and then verify the cabinets for plumb on your level. For faceframe cabinets, it’s best to drill two pilot holes of 1/8 inch through the faces of the frame and make use of screws. In this instance, for frames that are not frameless and ready to assemble kitchen cabinets, we will put screws through the sides of the plywood and then use shims between them to make sure that they are a snug fit. Also, make sure all cabinet surfaces are centered.
7. Once all wall cabinets have been installed Install the corner or the end of the base cabinet. Make use of shims for leveling the cabinets, and elevate it to the level that indicates the top that is the level of your floor. Make sure the cabinet is completely level from front to rear and side-to-side before fixing it onto the wall’s studs. If there isn’t an angled corner cabinet or blind base cabinet on the corner, simply push the cabinet that is adjacent to it into position and secure the two cabinets to each other. Install a filler strip if necessary to give the drawers and doors the space to close and open in a proper manner. If needed tap shims beneath your cabinet as well behind to adjust the cabinet for levels and plumb.
8. Install screws across the cabinets back (and the shims) through the wall’s wall studs. Remove any excess material from the shims using a sharp knife or chisel. Continue to join adjacent cabinets this way connecting them in as you did to the walls cabinets at step 6.
9. If your cabinets come in contact against a wall, then it is possible that you will require an extra strip of filler to fill in the final few inches. If you’re using built-in cabinets that are custom, then they must be built to fill in this gap however, if you’re using standard and RTA Cabinets for Kitchen Cabinets this strip could be required. If you have to make use of a filler strip remove the cabinet that you are using from other cabinet. Attach a straightedge to the wall of the closest installed cabinet, and extend it enough to allow you to place aligning marks on the back of the wall. You should allow the 3/4″ offset from the lines (for how thick the piece of filler) and attach a cleat on the wall. Install and secure the final cabinet, and measure the distance between the frame of its face with the wall.
In the event that your wall appears level you can simply cut the filler board to the desired size and secure it to the wall. When the walls are uneven and you’ll need to cut the filler board into a scribe. Begin by setting a mark with a compass that is the size of the gap. Next, put a piece that’s 1″-wide masking tape over the filler board, in the space that needs to be cut. Attach the board to the top of the of the frame on which the cabinet is mounted, and then trace the wall’s contour using the compass. Then, remove the board and cut it along the scribe line using the jigsaw, and then install it again to test the alignment. Once it’s in place you can screw screws through the adjoining face frame and into the edge of the board. Attach the opposite side of the board into the clamp.
Now your Kitchen cabinet assembly is completed. If you have purchased matching crown molding , or other accessories, they can be installed in no time. Depending on whether you were required to put shims on the cabinets that are base and if so, you’ll need to attach some trim pieces with toe kicks in order to cover the gaps caused by shims, or in the bottom of the cabinets in the kitchen.